What I managed to do was:
- Replace as the air cylinder seals
- Replace the oil damper seals
- Change the oil in the damper
- Replace the lower boot
- Replace the air filter and upper boot
- Swap the existing spring (green) to a stronger spring (red)
- Replace the Air Cylinder Saddle
Unfortunately I didn't take as many photos as I would have liked, but that because my hands got progressively greasier, so it was a pain to keep cleaning my hands just to take a photo. Anyway, I had no idea what negative spring was installed on the front, which turned out to be green (soft). I planned to change that to a red (hard).
I removed the old lower boot and replaced it with a newer tapered style boot, so now there'll be no danger of the front 183mm rotor shredding the boot.
Next I removed the existing spring using the shaft clamp to prevent damage to the damper shaft.
Once I drained the damper things started to get messy, so the photos are lacking, but everything went fairly smoothly. Although I wasnt able to replace the inner seals on the damper top cap since I couldn't figure out the way to remove it. Also since the Lockout and rebound was working well I didn't want to mess with the mechanism.
Anyway, here's the end result with the Lefty back on the bike and the new boots in place.
Without the proper tools it would have been impossible. Although now having opened the Lefty up I actually like it even more.I'll take it for a ride in the morning to see how it all feels.
9 comments:
I would like to do mine soon.
what special tools were needed? How did you replace the oil?
Do you fill a reservoir during assembly?
If it's a Lefty DLR 2000 then you can read the notes here: http://killerv800.blogspot.com/2010/03/lefty-servicing-notes.html
That's the guide I used. But you'll need a minium of a new set of seals and a castle tool to do the service. Most other tools are pretty standard. I filled mine with a heavier oil, me being a clyde and all :)
Note, the Lefty DLR 2000 needed a specific castle tool (HDTL200), the later lefties use another (KT004).
Killer V,
Thanks for the reply!! I was not expecting it. I thought my cry for help was going to be lost in digital space.
The link you left me is awesome. I ordered the replacement seal kit. Now I have to order the proper tools. I am not sure where yet. I will be looking on ebay. I weigh about 210 pounds so I think I will try the heavier oil as well. I will take pictures and let you know how it goes.
How often do you have to rebuild your fork? Some sites say after every ride it should be serviced. Is that true?
I cannot wait to hit some single-track !!!!!
Thanks again !!
Jeff
Hi Jeff,
I know the recommended interval is quite frequent but definately not after each ride. But definately clean it and check the boots for damage, air pressure, bolts etc before and after each ride.
(Normal/Race hours)
Greasing the telescope is 50/25 hours, needle bearing reset 25/25 hours, clean the air filter 25/10 hours, oil and seal change 100/25 hours plus a professional service once a year.
I guess the true interval depends on you're own usage. If you're biking through rivers, heavy mud or extreme dusty trails then more frequently. I can't remember the interval off hand, but once you get up to speed on the servicing then it's actually not that complicated. Having a clean airfilter and undamaged boots keeps the worst out. Having the right tools helps alot :) They do come up on ebay from time to time, but if you're in the USA then I think Universal Cycles (www.universalcycles.com) usually stock them. I'm in Europe (Sweden) and got my bits from Dr.Cannondale (www.drcannondale.de) in Germany.
Hope that helps!
How do I identify which model I have? There's a serial number i tried to google and didn't work. It says "Lefty" and "Speed". It's all silver, not black like yours. I bought the bike 2007-2008. White Cannondale F1 hardtail. I would like to send you pictures. I need to make sure the castle tool I order is the right one. They're expensive.
Thankyou again for your time. All the bike shops try to talk me out of doing it myself, will not sell me parts or tools, will not give me info, say its too dangerous ("an oil dampener ring can come loose AND my whole shock will come apart on the trail!"),and I will void the warranty if I work on it myself. I need to be "Certified" to handle All Of The Above. I asked how I can get get "Certified"? They say I can't. C'mon, I want to join the club !!! LOL
If it's not like mine then I'd assume you need the newer castle tool. From what I understand is that the first generation (year 2000) has one tool (HDTL200), the later lefties use another (KT004).
I've never worked on the later ones so I'm no expert on them either, and the guide I have here was specific to the DLR 2000 Lefty. One of the best places to get info on them in on the MTBR forums (See www.mtbr.com -> forums -> Cannondale). There's a good guide for the Lefty Max there...
I can understand the LBS trying to talk you out of it as it's a good chance of things going belly up or damagin things such as the shaft. not to mention alot of parts for older Lefties are no longer available.
Just verified it... I have the 2007 Lefty Speed DLR2. Trying to find a breakdown procedure.
http://www.scribd.com/doc/14893815/Instructions-Lefty-DLR2-EXCELLENT
This link I found for a 2006 Lefty DLR2... which looks very much like mine.
Great find on the search guide... :)
Good luck with it all!
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